A typical summit day is 10–14 hours long, so excellent fitness, combined with solid climbing skills is a must to be able to move quickly and confidently in steep, exposed terrain even when tired. We suggest a programme tailored to mountaineering such as those from the Uphill Athlete.
The Matterhorn is undeniably the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps. Its bold pyramidal shape evokes emotions of wonderment and even fear in those who view it for the first time as its four distinct faces stand omnipotent and menacing over the green meadows below.
With its formidable history and the magnificent grandeur of its architecture, the Hörnli Ridge on the Matterhorn is a climb that is definitely worth aspiring to. Perhaps the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps, the Matterhorn needs little in the way of introduction. Separated by sharp ridges, the four faces of the Matterhorn are orientated to the four points of the compass, the northern aspects within Switzerland while the southern side lies in Italy.
The peak was first climbed in 1865 by Edward Whymper via the famous Hörnli Ridge, the route that we also follow to the summit. The steep rock ridge is very involving and a successful attempt requires a rapid rate of ascent and full concentration by a fit party.
Climbers must be competent on long alpine rock routes to be able to seriously attempt the climb, but for the initiated, achieving the ascent will be the real highlight of a climbing trip in the Alps.
- Classic peak with centuries of history
- Long and technical route
- Cable car access and high-class mountain huts
Trip Level
Trip Level
Advanced
Elevation
Elevation
4,478m/14,691ft
Duration
Duration
6 days
Location
Location
France or Switzerland
MATTERHORN ITINERARY
DAY 0
Arrive in Chamonix, hotel night
DAY 1
Meet with your guide for an equipment check and briefing before taking La Flégère and l'Index lifts to 2,400m/7,800ft. Traverse the peaks of Aiguille de l’Index 2,595m/8,514ft and return via La Flégère lift. Hotel night
DAY 2
To Midi lift and acclimatise on the traverse of Pointe Lachenal 3,613m/11,854ft (AD). Return via the Arête des Cosmiques and the Midi lift. Overnight at Cosmiques Hut 3,613m/11,854ft |
DAY 3
Walk across the Valle Blanche and enjoy a traverse of the Entrèves 3,611m/11,847ft. Take the Panoramic lift back across and descend to Chamonix. Hotel night
DAY 4
Drive to Täsch in Switzerland, take the train into Zermatt itself. Take lift to Schwarzsee 1,050m/3,400ft and walk to the Hörnli Hut 3,260m/10,696ft, 2hrs |
DAY 5
Summit Day 4,478m/14,691ft. 3:00am start. Descend back to Hörnli, and continue down to Schwarzsee hotel
DAY 6
Descend to Zermatt and return to Chamonix with a bit of rock climbing en route. This is also a contingency day in case of bad weather. Hotel night
DAY 7
| Depart Chamonix after breakfast. Trip Ends |
Departures and Pricing
Note: Dates are subject to change due to many factors out of our control
Looking for a different technical European ascent? Check out the Eiger
PREPARE
Fitness
Technical Experience
An ascent of the Matterhorn is a serious undertaking and requires climbers to be confident in rock climbing in alpine boots to grade US 5.7/AUS 15/UK HS and be capable of moving at a steady pace for extended periods in technical terrain on snow and rock.
You must be an active rock climber with experience on long and technical multi-pitch alpine routes (The Dent du Geant and the Eiger Mittellegi Ridge are both good training climbs), have good rope skills and be familiar with snow and ice climbing techniques.
Why Adventure Consultants?
We offer focused guide attention to ensure consistency across the program. Whilst other operators combine you with large groups on training days we know your safety will be better protected and the learning progressions will be enhanced with the attentive care of your guide and smaller guide to climber ratios.
Adventure Consultants guides are BMG/NZMGA and / or IFMGA-UIAGM qualified mountain guides. They are professional mountaineers and operate to the highest industry standards. Being a technically proficient climber alone is not enough to work with us; our standards demand that trip leaders are great guides as well. You will find your guide friendly, approachable and focused on providing a safe and enjoyable trip in line with your objectives and comfort level.
Success with the highest margin of care is always a hallmark of our approach; promoting the realisation that even extreme pursuits such as high altitude mountaineering can be undertaken safely.
Adventure Consultants only employs IFMGA qualified guides for European ascents and courses and this is the only certification that is recognised in the French Alps. In order to gain these qualifications guides must undergo rigorous training and assessment on climbing skills, instructional skills, avalanche training and assessment, wilderness first aid, rescue training and much more. The qualification takes many years to attain and ensures you are getting a world class professional service.
Inclusions
The price of your trip includes the following:
- Qualified mountain guide
- Group technical equipment
- Lift passes as per the scheduled itinerary
- Hut accommodation as per the scheduled itinerary
- Hotel accommodation on a B&B basis during trip dates as specified on the schedule, including first / last night of your trip
- Local ground transport as per the scheduled itinerary
- Breakfast & dinner during mountain component of course/trip.
Our Team
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